Auroville, en vision om en fristad

Modell över Auroville med Matrinamdir i centrum

Auroville verkar lockande. En fristad där syftet är att bli en större människa. Växa. Med en gedigen filosofi i ryggen. Och levande initiativrika invånare. Fast räcker det med att bygga en guldboll och ha fina idéer, om projektet drar för lite folk och går back? Kanske? Det är kanske värt ett försök i alla fall?

Auroville, fristaden en halvtimme från Pondy

Jag erkänner. När jag tänker på alternativboende poppar det upp bilder på hemmstickade gröna jumprar, ekoligisk tofu och hampaodlingar (till rep så klart!). Även om jag senare åren reviderat denna bilden rätt mycket ramlar det ändå in tankar om hemmaborrade brunnar, schakran och Reiki-healing. Knappast Let’s Dance direkt. Men Auroville verkar vara annorlunda. Större.

Efter en halvtimmes vansinnesfärd, eller som indierna själva skulle beskriva det, en vanlig autorikshawfärd, är vi framme i Auroville. – ”We’ll be back in two hours, two o’clock.” säger vi till vår förare för dagen och går upp mot Auroville.

Bara några tiotal meter på den röda grusstigen infinner sig ett lugn. Kanske är det för att vi suttit i en smattrande moped genom ett högljutt Pondy, men tystnaden här känns verkligen. Runt omkring oss växer träd och grönska. För fyrtio år sedan fanns ingenting här. Bara grus. Alla träd och växter jag ser är planterade.

Sri Aurobindo hade en vision, Modern skapade idén Auroville

Auroville startade som en idé av Modern. En fransk kvinna som tog över Sri Aurobindos mantel vid dennes död, eller när han lämnade sin fysiska kropp som Aurobindianerna(?) skulle kalla det. Hon ville skapa ett nytt samhälle, en ny stat och stad. Nytt? Knappast. I tidens anda antar jag. En enda värld, ett enda folk och allt det där. Fattas bara Esperanto. Hon verkar dock ha något annat en del andra som försökt har saknat: en rejält genomtänkt filosofi och en vilja att leva den fullt ut.

Sri Aurobindo grundade det som kallas Integral Yoga. Grundtanken verkar vara att hjälpa människan att nå nästa steg i utvecklingen genom att titta på hela livet och inte bara böja kroppen i märkliga ställningar eller sitta still på en kudde. Så med Sri Aurobindos omfattande filosofi i ryggen börjar Modern sätta igång och bygga staden. Eller samhället, eller nationen, eller vad man nu skall kalla det. Idag är de tvåtusen människor som bor där. Byggplanen är dock anpassad för femtiotusen. Det finns med andra ord plats för fler.

Propagandafilmen imponerar

Efter några minuters promenad är vi framme vid Visitors Center. På höger sidan ligger en vacker stor, vit byggnad. Vi följer skylten ”Video about Auroville” in genom ett skynke och in i en aula med plats för ett femtiotal nyfikna. Videon kör igång. Jag blir imponerad över ambitionen. Auroville är en plats för de som vill realisera och bli en del av något större. Ständigt växa. Jag förväntar mig budskap hur dåligt det är med kommersialism och krig, men finner snarare en reklamfilm för inre utforskande. Och en vilja att vara snäll. Visst är det propagandafilm, men ändå. Nyfiken kliver jag ut några minuter senare. In till den stora utställningssalen. En verkligt påkostad och fin utställning. Utan några fördömmande undertoner (”vi har rätt”) eller omvändningsbudskap (”skåda ljuset och flytta hit!”). Snarare information än propaganda. Och inga gröna stickade koftor här inte. Inte ens en hampaodlning finns med på modellen över staden som står i en glasmonter.

Ihopplattad gyllene Matrimandir

Ihopplattad, gyllene och antagligen väldigt symbolisk.

Nästa station blir Matrimandir. Ett monument i mitten av Auroville. Ser ut som en tillplattad gyllene golfboll. Fast stor nog att gå in i. Det måste man dock boka biljett till en dag i förväg (något vi gör på hemvägen). En dryg kilometers promenad från Visitors Center kommer vi fram till en jättelik trädgård. Och där i mitten, bredvid ett gigantiskt träd, ligger bollen. Gassandes i solen. Vi tar några pliktskyldiga bilder av bollen. Den är verkligen gigantisk. Just då har jag ingen aning om vad den skall representera. Är det verkligen guld? Hur ser den ut inuti? Hur ser kristallen inuti ut? Vi bestämmer oss för att åka dit dagen efter och bokar en biljett. På vägen hem i rikshawn funderar på om vi skulle kunna bo här i Auroville. Kanske. Men inte hela livet. Något år kanske. Eller nej, troligtvis inte.

Kommer Auroville överleva?

Så hur långt har de då lyckats med sin vision? När vi frågar en av guiderna målas en mer balanserad bild upp. Just nu bor det ungefär tvåtusen människor här. Här finns flera skolor, läkare och annat som hör en stad till. En av tankarna med Auroville är att invånarna skall äga så lite som möjligt, och inga pengar ska anändas i staden. Ingen äger huset de bor i, de tillhör alla. Invånarna jobbar ungefär åtta timmar om dagen, de flesta med saker i Auroville, andra med saker utanför. Till exempel att göra hemsidor eller producera saker som säljs utanför staden. Varje år flyttar mellan 350-500 in. Bara 150 stannar efter de första åren. Som vår guide sa, det svåra är inte det praktiska utan tanken att inte äga. Att släppa det materiella begäret. Det får mig att tänka på ett fantastisk citat av Ramm Dass ”We are all one, but it’s MY tv-set!”.

En annan utmaning är att få in mer unga människor. Tydligen ser många pensionärer Auroville som ett fint ställe att bo på, men som guiden sa, ett samhälle kan inte bara ha människor som mediterar och som står med ena foten i graven. Bra poäng.
Så vad kommer hända? Jag vet faktisk inte. Just nu går hela projektet back. Det behövs mer än femtusen invånare för att det skall gå runt. Efter fyrtio år är de tvåtusen som bor här.

Samtidigt är kanske inte det poängen? Auroville är en vision. En verkligt genomarbetad vision. Inspirerande. Imponerande. Och ibland är det viktigare än om visionen verkligen fungerar.


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63 Kommentarer

  1. inga johanson |

    ”Fattas bara Esperanto.”

    På Wikipedias esperantosida Vikipedio kan man läsa om Auroville, som här kallas
    Aŭrorurbo:

    http://eo.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auroville

    så esperanto fattas inte här

    • Hej Inga och tack for din kommentar!

      Det verkar som det finns lite esperanto i Auroville i alla fall, tack for upplysningen. Och det kanns passande. Och spraket dar verkar fortsatta utvecklas. Samtidigt verkar det inte som malet ar ett enda sprak. Enligt http://www.auroville.org/society/Languages.htm sa var The Mother inne pa att manga sprak har en unik kvalitet och att de inte far do ut.. Samtidigt som det finns 35 olika nationalliteter inne pa Auroville sa ett gemensamt vokabular anpassat for det unika livet inne pa Auroville ar nog ganska passande….

      //Martin

  2. inga johanson |

    Detta var en intressant länk du bifogade.
    Jag kom just att tänka på Bahá’í
    http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bahá%27%C3%AD
    och Oomoto
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  54. Hi and welcome to my blog . I’m Sebastien Macfarlane.
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